Tips for Thrift Shopping from an Expert
Time and again, one of the most frequent questions I receive on Instagram is where I go thrift shopping. But here’s the thing, the whole idea of what constitutes a good thrift store is completely arbitrary. Why? Because it all comes down to what you’re looking for. A good thrift store for furniture may be different than one for clothing, and what I deem “good” may be completely different than what the person asking considers good thrifting. So, it’s far more effective to focus on technique. If you fine-tune your thrifting skills, you’ll be far more likely to find that thrift store unicorn than simply trying to find the “good” thrift stores. After all, their supply is completely dependent on what people donate – the selection changes constantly.
Thrift shopping has always been a big part of my life – and my blogging life. My original blog, Orchid Grey, was founded on the idea that you didn’t need a lot of money to look good – something I still believe. I grew up shopping in thrift stores and wearing my neighbor’s hand-me-downs during a time when it was considered definitely uncool to do so. From finding affordable clothing with my mom as a kid, to sussing out vintage polyester dresses as a college student, to hunting down pieces that could pass for designer more recently. It’s always been a major part of my life – and my closet – and at this point, thrifting is second nature, the activity I do – often alone – to decompress and gather my thoughts, and of course, to find some secondhand treasure! So, how do you become a thrift shopping expert? Just follow my tips for successful secondhand shopping:
When:
When is the best time to go thrift shopping? I mean, you could go to the thrift store on a Saturday, but you’ll be competing with everyone and their mother for the good stuff. To me, the ideal days of the week to go to a thrift store are Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday. If you think about it, people are usually spending their weekends cleaning out their attics, basements, closets, and garages and dropping off their donations on Saturdays or Sundays. So, midweek you're not only competing with fewer people, but the selection is usually better. Obviously, if you work a regular 9 to 5 job, it can be difficult - or near impossible- to make it to a store mid-week, so if that’s the case, try to shop early in the mornings on Saturday or Sunday.
Where:
Where are the best thrift stores? Don’t get me wrong, I’ve found some vintage gold in city thrift stores, but if you live in the city, chances are you've visited many a picked-over Goodwill or Salvation Army within city limits. While these thrift stores aren't completely without reward - they're great if you don't have a lot of free time to devote to thrifting - you're competing with a lot of people to find the gold, including college students and high school kids looking for that perfect 90's Night or Halloween costume.
So, where to go? Get out of the city. Rural church and charity shops are not only great places to find actual vintage, but they're typically much cheaper than thrift stores within city limits. You're competing with far fewer people, and those that do shop at these stores most likely won't be looking at that insane 1970's maxi dress. One of my favorite things to do if I have a little free time while traveling is to find a local thrift store. I did this all the time while working as a college admissions counselor back in the day, and it always paid off. Plus, you occasionally get to meet interesting people!
And don’t forget to check out the smaller thrift stores within city limits, too. Goodwill and Salvos aren’t the only options out there.
Size (Sometimes) Doesn't Matter – but shop mindfully:
I always look everywhere in the thrift store. Because women's (and men's) sizing has changed so drastically over the years, sticking to your exact sizing section alone is pretty pointless. Everything fits differently, so it’s worth skimming through the racks to see what you can find. Look beyond your size and you might find some hidden gems.
While you’re at it, look everywhere else too: The men's section is great for vintage Levi's and Dickies, flannels, button-ups, menswear coats and grandpa sweaters. Check out the children's section for shrunken jackets, denim vests, school uniform separates (think solid sweaters and pleated skirts), and misplaced ‘90s minis, and check out housewares for vintage planters and vases.
I say shop mindfully because it’s important to remember that, if you’re on the smaller end of the spectrum, you innately have thin privilege. Because of the size I wear, I could shop a variety of sizes and either alter a piece to make it work or wear something loose. Our larger-sized thrifting pals often don’t have that privilege, so if you’re shopping, leave the plus-sized items for the plus-sized community.
Learn to Recognize Quality:
This is my favorite part of thrift shopping! Thrift shopping is a great way to add higher-end fabrics to your closet that you may not be able to justify purchasing new. Keep an eye out for silk, cashmere, linen, and good-quality leather.
Example? A vintage/second-hand sweater from Saks is typically going to have better quality dyes and fibers than the same style from Target from last year, compare and contrast, and eventually, you'll be able to discern a quality piece without even picking it up off the rack. While I'm not totally opposed to purchasing big box or fast fashion brands from a thrift store, I usually skip over them because the garment almost always looks tired and worn out (a reminder to limit those purchases in the first place). But that's just me, and as always there are exceptions. Case in point: I recently bought a like-new Zara blazer for $1. Hard to go wrong there and it goes with almost everything.
If there’s a specific brand you like, learn to recognize the markings of that brand. I used to thrift a lot of vintage Coach and Dooney & Bourke bags, and I know to look for a specific type of strap and style of clasp when scanning the purses section before checking for signs of authenticity. Honing a keen eye makes it easier to pick out any gems that may be hiding within the chaos.
Steer Clear of "The Challenge" – unless you’re really, really serious...
So, I used to have a big problem. I used to buy ridiculous things at the thrift store. I would find something that could be totally awesome (!!!)… if only the hem was shorter, the bust was taken in, the sleeves were cut off, and the collar replaced. All that left me with was one giant basket of "to be altered" clothing – that I never actually altered and eventually re-donated or gave away. I fully support altering clothing, and I would love to think that I had the extra time or patience to actually alter all those things. But most of the time I don't. Be honest with yourself when you’re thrifting, and if you know you’re never going to do the alterations, leave the item for someone else to enjoy. The same goes for reselling things. And for things that are Just-So-Crazy-Wouldn't-It-Be-Funny-If-I-Wore-This-To...
You get the idea.
A few helpful questions you might consider asking yourself:
Can you wash it easily enough?
Can you fix it if it needs mending – and will you actually mend it??
Will you actually bring it to the dry cleaners?
Is that a surface stain and are you willing to actually deal with it?
Keep a Shopping List...
To that end, it can be helpful to keep a running list of items you're hoping to add to your closet. An inspiration folder or Pinterest board works great too. Take this list or have the folder on your phone with you when you're out shopping and keep an eye out for items that fulfill specific needs – like a pair of jeans, a white dress, etc. Not only can this help you focus while shopping, but it can lead to a more streamlined and cohesive wardrobe as well.
Final Thoughts:
Remember that thrifting takes time. The perfect, untouched thrift store chock full of vintage bags and dresses just doesn't exist, and while it may be easy to look at a wardrobe like mine and think it was all found at once, in reality there are days and weeks when I find nothing at all, and days when I find a bunch of stuff – thrifting, and building a wardrobe of mostly secondhand treasures, takes time and patience, but if you thrift for the classics, you’ll get there.
Thrift shopping is an amazing resource for building up your wardrobe, trying new trends, and sticking to a clothing budget. If you stick with quality pieces and take care of them, your thrifted items will be with you for years to come – plus you get the bragging rights of sharing the mind-bending low price you found something for!
